Manufacture of hat-bodies



UNTTED sTATEs PATENT oEEioE.

ALVA B. TAYLOR, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

MANUFACTURE HAT-BODIES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 15,534, dated August 12, 1856; Antedated March To all whom 'it may concern.'

Be it known that I, ALvA B. TAYLOR, of Newark, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Hat-Bodies; and I do hereby vdeclare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the drawings which are hereto annexed, and in which Figure l represents a side elevation of my improved had body machinery; Fig. Q is an end elevation of the same; Fig. 3 is a vertical section thereof; Fig. 4 is a planl of the fancase and draft box, certain portions being removed to show the interior arrangement of the parts; and Fig. 5 is a plan of the scalloped edged wheel and reciprocating.

bar.

Various machines have been constructed for manufacturing hat bodies which operate upon the general plan of first disseminating the fur or other stock in a occulent state in the air and afterward collecting it upon thesurface of a perforated conical former by means of the currents of air induced by exhausting the air from within the cone. In

all these machines the dissemination of the= fur in the air is effected by means of a1 picker or toothed cylinder or cylindricalj brush revolving at a high velocity, to whichl the fur is presented by a suitable feeding apparatus or feed-motion. In machines constructed heretofore, the perforated cone has been generally set in an upright position or. with its axis at right angles to the axis of' the picking cylinder, which latter must nec-` essarily be horizontal in order to permit the fur to be fed to it by a horizontal feed apron. This upright position of the perforated cone has hitherto been convenient and even necessary to enable it to be readily applied to and'removed .from the machine to permit the hat body to be hardened upon they viated in a subsequent machine by extending the casing of the picking cylinder so as to form a long tunnel or chamber which is interposed between the picking cylinder and the perforated cone, and a strong current of air was maintained within the chamber to carry the particles of fur through it. The formvof this tunnel has been made such that that end of it from which the fur passed to t-he perforated cone approximated in form with a vertical section of the cone so as to constitute an adjutage by which the form of the mixed current of fur and air issuing from it was controlled, the current being broader where it issues to those parts of the cone on which it was desirable to have the thickest deposit of fur and vice versa. Although machines of this construction obviate in part the defects of the earlier machines they possess defects which are peculiar to themselves. One of these defects is incidentl to the employment of the long chamber in which portions of the fur drop and accumulate at the bottom. This is particularly the case with clippings or short fur a large percentage of which could other wise be employed and by the use of which the manufact-ure could be proportionately cheapened. Another defect incident to the long and peculiarly formed chamber is that the fur from all portions of the picking cylinder is intimately mixed together in it before it passes to the perforated cone; hence it is extremely difficult if not impossible to form different portions of the hat body of stock of different qualities. The trunk machine regula-tes the distribution of the fur by acting upon it after it leaves the picking cylin- 1 der, and this mode of operation appears to be a favorite one with inventors of hat body machinery, as many machines have been devised which operate upon this plan. In some of these machines the distribution is effected by modified forms of trunk-distributers, and in one kind the effect is produced by the act-ion of a series of jets of air which surround the current of fur as it .leaves the picking cylinder, and change its sectional form so as to cause it 'to deposit unequally upon the cone. Machines of this description are necessarily rendered more complicated by the mechanism required to produce 'and give direction to the currents of air. In

another class of machines the distribution of the cone and picker while the fur is depositing upon the cone. In one of these machines the conical former is caused to vibrate in front of the picker, while in another the position of the cone is not changed but the whole picking apparatus is moved along the .length of the cone While the fur is depositing, so as to deliver the fur most rapidly at times to one portion of the cone and at times to other portions thereof. These two kinds of machines like those which have preceded them are rendered more compli cated by the mechanical devices necessary to impart a vibratory motion to the cone or to move the picking apparatus while the fur is depositing. Such machines are also more difficult to tend.

The object of my invention is to effect the requisite distribution of the fur or other stock upon the perforated cone; Yto enable the manufacturer to use short fur with advantage and to permit any particular portion of the hat body to be formed of such stock as may be deemed best suited to the purpose. This improvement consists in a method of regulating the distribution ofv the flocculent fur upon the perforated cone by varying the feed to the picking cylinder.

There are also various improvements in the arrangement and construction of the nia-1 chinery devised by me which will hereinafter more fully appear and for which I in- 1 tend to solicit Letters Patent. i In the accompanying drawings A is the frame of the picker upon which the picking cylinder and the feed motion are mounted and to which the shafts are secured by means of which motionV is imparted to 'the various 2 parts of the machine. The upper portion a of this picker frame is made separate fromV the lower, and is attached to the latter byv hinges or pivots so that the end of the upper portion of the frame at which the effected by turning a screw b which passes through a nut that is made fast to a cross bar c of the lower portion of the picker frame and bears against a cross bar c that connects together the sides of the upper portion of the picker frame. The upper portion ofthe frame is steadied and 4guided as it is raised or depressed by guide pins which project downward from the upper crossbar c through corresponding holes in the lower cross bar .0.

The feed motion consists of an endless band or apron C which runs upon two rollers (l CZ situated near the opposite extremities of the upper portion a of the picker frame. One of these rollers Z has a pulley.

wheel D secured to its axle to receive a belt by which a rotary motion is imparted to the roller from the main shaft E at the lower part of the frame. The feed apron conveys the stock to a pair of feed rollers e e which are situated immediately in front of the picking cylinder B. Motion is imparted to the lower of these feed rollers from the shaft of the feed apron roller d, by means of a belt which encircles a belt pulley secured to the shaft and a corresponding one upon the axle of the feed roller. The upper roller is driven from the lower by means of a pair of pinions whose teeth engage and which are secured to the axles of the respective feed rollers. In order that the feed rollers may grip the fur more securely, the upper one should be pressed toward the llower by springs or weights and the barrels of the two rollers should be slightly fluted.

The picking cylinder B, which revolves in close proximity with the feed rollers, has its 'barrel studded with teeth, which act upon the fur presented to them by the rollers. It should be driven at a high speed. In the machine represented in the accompanying drawings motion is imparted to it from the counter shaft E by means of a belt which encircles a suitable belt pulley secured to the shaft and a corresponding belt pulley upon vthe shaft of the picking cylinder. The counter shaft E" is driven from the main shaft by means of cog wheels secured to the respective shafts. The picking cylinder revolves in the direction indicated by the arrow placed beneath it in Fig. 3 and it is covered with a cap or case F which extends `its whole length and acts as a deflecting plate to cause the fur which naturally tends to adhere to the picking cylinder to pass off from the latter in the direction indicated by the red arrows in Fig. l. It also prevents the stock upon the feed apron from passing accidentally over the upper feed roller.

The perforated cone Gr, which receives the fur from the `picking cylinder, forms one of a series of three Gr, G', G, which ,project radially from a pyramidal draft-box I-I. This draft box is supported by a fan case I, which is sufficiently large `to form a firm base for the draft-box as well as to contain the fan by which the draft is maintained through the perforations `of the cones. The draft box has a collar plate z' at its bottom, which fits loosely upon a corresponding collar on the top of the fan case I beneath the draft-box, in such manner that the draft box with the cones upon it can be turned upon its axis to bring each cone in turn in the proper position to receive the flocculent fur from the picking cylinder. In order to hold the draft-box with the cones upon it stationary until the proper quantity of fur is' collected upon the cone opposite the picker, one of its corners is engaged with a capes through the air trunk.

spring catch g, which is secured to the top of the fan case. The circular space within the collar plates is open so as to permit a free draft from the interior of the draft box to the fan case beneath. A circular opening is also made in each face of the draft box behind the base of each perforated cone so as to permit the draft to be drawn through the cone into the draft box.

Each perforated cone is made fast by a rim at its base to a ring plate f, whose face is sufficiently broad to receive perforated cones of the various sizes used in the manufacture of hat bodies, and the ring plate is secured to a short shaft y' that projects radially outward from the axis of the draft box. The inner journal of each of these radiating shafts is supported in a hub 7c at the center of the draft box, and the outer journal of each shaft is supported by a bridge tree m, which crosses the opening in the faceof the draft box.A The radiating shafts are fitted with beveled wheels J, whose teeth engage with those of a corresponding beveled wheel J that is secured to an upright shaft K passing through the hub of the draft box. This upright shaft extends upward sufliciently to pass through and project a short distance beyond the top of the draft box; it also extends downward into the fan case beneath, where it is tted with a worm wheel Z, to which .motion is imparted by a worm l upon a horizontal shaft E2. The fan M by which the draft is maint-ained is of the screw variety. It is situated at the mouth of a circular opening in a partition L, which crosses the fan case and divides it into two parts, the larger of which communicates by the opening in the collar plates with the draft box above, while the smaller communicates with an air trunk situatedbeneath the floor of the factory so that the air drawn from the perforated cones through the draft box and larger compartment of the fan case is discharged into the smaller compartment, from which it es- The fan shaft E3 is fitted with a belt pulley and is driven from the counter-shaft E of the picker frame by means of a belt which also passes over a pulley upon the worm shaft E2 and drivesthe latter.

The axis of the draft box is inclined,.in order that when the draft box is turned up on the collar plates the perforated cones may readilypass beneath the picking cylinder. yThe draft box is also set close to the perforated cones to pass the picker frame when the draft box is turned. The inclination of the axis of the `draft box requires ai corresponding inclination in the upright sha-ft K,.which is sufficient to permit the teeth of the worm wheel to work freely in the worm without requiring to be skewed.

As has been stated there are three perforated cones G, G', G2, upon the draft box. One of these, G, Figs. l and 2, is in the pro-per position to receive the lfur delivered by the picking cylinder, being opposite thereto and extending lengthwise therewith, that portion of the conicalI surface which is nearest to the i picking cylinder being slightly oblique thereto, as shown in the accompanying drawings. This position of the cone with reference to the picker is attained by setting the radiating shaft j at a suitable inclination to the upright shaft K, and the draft box is made of pyramidal form in order to accommodate its sides to the position of the base of the cone. Of the other two cones, one G, is in a proper position for 4the hardening of the coating of fur or bat which has collected upon it. This hardening is effected by the combined action of pressure and motion. The pressure is imparted in this instance by means of a conical cover G3, which lies loosely upon the bat, upon which cover a series of weighted rollers N rest. A rapid reciprocating movement is imparted to thecover by means of a bar O, which slides radially to and fro across the top of the draft box. The outer extremity of this reciprocating bar is fitted is received in a ring groove which is formed in a boss 0 secured to the head of the cover."

The inner half of the reciprocating bar has two pins 7 r', protruding from its upper face, which are acted upon alternately by the scalloped rim of a -wheel P, that is secured to the upper end of the upright shaft K. The reciprocating bar is prevented from turning with the scalloped wheel P by a guide standard g in which the outer end of the reciprccatingbar slides, while its inner extremity is maintained in its proper position by the upright shaft K, which passes through a slot in the bar; hence as the upright shaft and the scalloped wheel upon it revolve a short and rapid, or tremulous, reciprocating movement is imparted to the reciprocating bar O, and from it by means of the arm n at its outer end to the cover G3that is borne upon the bat by the weight of the rollers N.

In order that the hardened bat may be Areadily removed from the perforated cone a which is above the circular opening in the collar plates 2' and below the central hub if: is cut away, so as to leave the cylindrical space above the circular opening in the collar plates unobstructed. A curved partition projects upward into this cylindrical space from the fan case beneath. This curved partition is secured by its lower edge to the collar plate upon the fan case and it is of such height and breadth that it closes the space between two of the radial partitions s s and shuts off one division of the draft box and the perforated cone communicating therewith from the remaining two, so that the draft passing to the fan case cannot be drawn through the perforated cone whose base is adjacent to the curved partition. That portion of t-he top of the fan case which is immediately beneath the division of the draft box from which the draft is shut 01T is cut away, so as to form a communication between this division of the draft box Iand the smaller compartment of the fan case the machine is in operation, the feed apron, j

feed rolls, picking cylinder, and perforated cones move in the directions respectively indicated by the arrows in the drawings. A weighed quantity of fur or other suitable stock sui'icient to form one hat body is laid by the attendant upon the feed apron and is conveyed by it to the feed rollers, which present it to the picking cylinder. The latter in its rapid revolution picks t-he fur and carries it around with it until it is deflected by the casing of the picking cylinder. When the fur leaves the cylinder it is drawn toward the perforated cone immediately opposite. As this cone slowly revolves the flocculent fur collects upon it until the charge upon the feed apron is exhausted. At this point of the operation the attendant stops the feed apron, upon which he has meanwhile been distributing a second charge, which is separated by a short vacant space from the first one. the fur is collected upon the perforated cone an attendant applies a cover to the bat and then turns the draft box one third around. This movement brings a second cone in the proper position to receive fur from the picker, while the first one with the bat and exterior cone upon it is brought to the hardening apparatus, where the pressure ap- `the picking cylinder.

As soon as the whole of i plied by the cover combined' with the tremulous movement imparted to it induces a rapid felting of the bers of fur and the consequent hardening of the bat. This operation proceeds so quickly that by the time the second cone has received a charge of fur upon it from the picking cylinder the bat upon the first one is sufficiently hardened t0 bear handling without injury. The draft box is now turned a second third of a revolution, by which movement the third cone is presented to the picking cylinder, the second one passes to the hardening apparatus, and the first with its hardened bat is freed from the hardening apparatus and is in the proper position for the removal of the bat. This operation is effected by shaking the cover by hand, when the pressure of the air within the cone detaches the hardened bat, so thatit may be readily withdrawn with the cover, leaving the'perforated cone free and ready to be again presented to After the hardened bat or hat body is removed from the machine the hardening process may be carried to a greater extent by wrapping the bat in a damp linen cloth and working it by hand in the same manner that bats are worked in the manufacture of hat bodies by hand.

The dimensions of the cover G3 with respect to the bat are not important provided that it be large enough to pass easily over it, as the object of the cover is not to confine the fur but to impart pressure and motion to it. If the cover be of nearly the same size as the bat it should be perforated to permit the air to press upon the bat; but if the cover be five or six inches larger in diameter than the bat it is not necessary that it should be perforated, as there will then be sufcient space for air to pass inside of the cover.

In the manufacture of hats it is custo-mary to form the top of the cone of felt or hat body thinner than the rest, while those parts of the hat body which are to form the brim of the hat and to receive the hat band should be thicker than the rest. In order to accomplish this result the fur must be unequally distributed over the perforated cone, a larger quantity being delivered to those parts where the hat body is to be the thickest. I effect the requisite distribution of the fur for this purpose by varying the feed to dilferent portions of the picking cylinder.

From the foregoing description it will be perceived that the perforated cone is directly opposite the picking cylinder; hence the fur which proceeds from any one portion of the picking cylinder lodges upon a corresponding opposite portion of the perforated cone, and if it be necessary to 'increase the thickness of the bat at any particular part of the perforated cone the operation is effected by distributing the charge of fur upon t-he feed apron in such manner that there shall be more fur conveyed to that part of the picking cylinder which delivers fur to the part of the perforated cone where the bat is to be made thickest, and on the other hand less fur is fed to that part of the picking cylinder which delivers fur to the part of the perforated cone where the bat is to be made thin7 and which is usually the head or tip.

As the fur delivered by any part of the picking cylinder is always delivered to t-he same corresponding part of the perforated cone opposite the cylinder, it is easy in my machine to form different parts of the hat body of different qualit-ies of stock. Thus for example an excellent and cheap hat body can be formed partly of fur and partly of wool. In such a body those surfaces which appear to the eye, viz, the whole exterior and the interior of the brim, should be fo-rmed wholly of fur, while the interior surface of the crown and the mass of the hat. body may be of wool. Such a hat body is readily formed by my machinery by feeding fur to that portion of the picking cylinder whence it is delivered to the part of the perforated cone that corresponds with the brim of the hat, while at the same time wool is fed to the other parts of the picking cylinder. As soon as enough fur has been fed to form the surface of the interior of the brim, wool alone is fed to the picking cylinder, and this is followed by a feed 0f fur alone, which being collected upon the perforated cone after the wool, coats it over and forms a fur surface to the whole exterior of the bat.

It will be evident to the skilful mechanic that various changes 'may be made in the machinery described by me without materially affecting the principle of my invention, and I reserve to myself the right to make such changes as circumstances may require.

What I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is- Regulating the distribution of the fur or other stock upon the perforated cone by varying the feed to the picking cylinder at different parts of its length.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name.

A. B. TAYLOR. Witnesses:

E. CHAPIN, GEO. W. TAYLOR. 

